Archives for May, 2008
Posted under South Island |
Stewart Island, known as New Zealand’s Third Island is renowned for its birdlife. It’s separated from South Island by Foveaux Strait. Getting there is possible by Air or Sea.
By Air - Southern Air fly twin-engine, Britten Norman Islander Aircraft. Several scheduled flights depart Invercargill Airport daily. The twenty minute flight, lands at Ryans Creek Airfield, a mile (2 km) out of Oban. A courtesy van brings you to the Southern Air Depot, in the heart of town.
By Sea - Foveaux Express, and it’s sister catamaran Southern Express cross Foveaux Strait from Bluff in an hour. There are morning and afternoon sailings twice daily, most days of the year. The ferry lands at the Halfmoon Bay wharf, just five minutes walk from the Pub.
Getting here is half the fun. Usually the crossing is a very pleasant trip, watching the Island grow as you approach. However, Foveaux Strait, can cut up rough at times, and the crossing isn’t so pleasurable. Very occasionally we may be cut off from the world for a day or so - but that’s island life.
Day trips are possible, either by sea or air. You’ll have time to wander round town, take a bus tour round the roads, and maybe fit in a boat excursion on Paterson Inlet. However, to really experience Stewart Island you need to spend more time.
Accommodation is available for most tastes. There’s no “Rakiura Hilton” with white-jacketed waiters hovering at your elbow, and a casino upstairs. You’ll find a range of comfortable Stewart Island accommodation, and good meals - with seafood a specialty.
Traveller’s Tips
Leave pretention, surplus baggage, and our sense of time behind. More than one local has forgotten to return from the holiday started a decade ago.
- Weather is changeable - bring sensible outdoor clothing and footwear. Don’t go to extremes - even in winter it isn’t an Arctic clime - snowshoes are never worn.
- Forget the fancy clothes - locals take anyone wearing a suit in the bar for a politician - and expect them to shout the drinks. Wear a dinner jacket, and we’ll take you for a penguin, and gently, but firmly, toss you back in the tide.
- Keep baggage to a minimum - especially if coming by air. The plane is small, and baggage per passenger is definitely limited when there’s a full complement of passengers.
Posted under Tips & Advice |
White Water Kayaking
Kayaking is New Zealand’s most popular river sport. It’s an individual’s sport, involving a lot of fun challenges. Staying upright while trying to avoid boulders and punch through waves is enough to double anyone’s heart rate. The more peaceful side of the sport involves gently gliding down beautiful rivers and through remote wilderness areas.
Skills
Kayaks have more speed and maneuverability than rafts. However, these are not positive attributes until you have the skill and judgment to be able to use them to your advantage. Until the eskimo roll is mastered, any mistakes usually result in a ’swim’ (being swept down a rapid while desperately clutching your canoe and paddle). New Zealand has an extensive network of canoeing clubs, many of which provide excellent instruction courses. As kayaking is potentially very dangerous, it is best to learn with a club or commercial canoe school.
Equipment
Currently the best all-purpose white water kayak is the Dancer. You’ll also need a paddle, spray skirt and spray jacket (or nylon wind breaker), as well as the general safety equipment previously mentioned. Canoe clubs usually hire out equipment at very reasonable rates.
Tubing
Tubing is a lot of fun and has a strong appeal because it costs nothing and requires few technical skills compared to kayaking. A tube raft can easily be carried into remote rivers and constructed on site. After lashing a couple of over-inflated truck tyre inner-tubes together and making an improvised paddle, you’re away. It’s a hard-case sport that will probably never make it to the Olympics.
Skills
The main skill required is knowing how to read the river. Tubing itself is a piece of cake. A tube raft is stable (or at least it should be) and easy to climb back onto if you capsize. Picking the right line down the river and avoiding the obstacles mentioned above is not so easy. Tube rafts are difficult to steer and spin around quickly after bumping into rocks. They are very slow on long flat sections.
Equipment
For each rafter, beg, borrow, or steal two large truck tubes and 5 metres of rope, and the safety equipment previously mentioned. Each party needs at least one foot pump, a puncture repair kit, a valve tool and plenty of spare valves. You can get most of this stuff from your local garage. Paddles can be improvised out of almost anything (take a look at the cover!). The perfect craft has yet to be designed, so we’ll leave that up to you. But make sure it’s tied together tightly and there’s nothing loose that you can get snagged on. To inflate a tube quickly, take the valve out, blow it up by mouth, screw the valve back in, then use the foot pump to inflate it the rest of the way.
Rafting
To raft down really rough rivers (grade IV and V), you should go with a professional rafting company. Most guided trips are safe, well organised and no previous experience is required, even for really big water.
River Sledging
This exciting new sport involves swimming, with the aid of a glorified boogie board and flippers, down rivers and through rapids that would take years to master in a canoe. As yet the sledges cannot be bought in New Zealand, but a few adventure companies offer excellent trips on some of our most popular rivers.
Sea Kayaking
The kayak was originally designed and built by Eskimos to be used in the sea, and in recent years there has been a revival of using it for this purpose. Nowadays, well designed fibreglass and plastic, single or double kayaks can be hired at most of the best paddling spots. Both stable and fast, these kayaks can glide along at the same speed as a walker but carry twice as much gear.
Skills
Only basic kayaking skills and a moderate level of fitness are required. With a little common sense it’s a very safe activity. A full briefing on kayaking techniques, safety procedures and the area you’re paddling in should be given by the company you hire the kayaks from. If you’re still hesitant, hire a guide. Companies do not rent kayaks to solo paddlers.
Equipment
Along with the kayak, a life jacket, spray skirt, paddle, and safety flares are provided. Often, camping equipment and snorkelling gear are also available. Take all the standard outdoor stuff, and an extra large sunhat and sunglasses.
Diving
Diving reveals an unimaginable world of strange creatures and bizarre plants - it’s often difficult to tell which is which. To skin dive you need three basic things: a mask to see, a snorkel to breathe and flippers to move. A wetsuit in cold waters enables you to dive without freezing to death. To go scuba diving you have to sit a course to obtain a scuba certificate. Shops will not fill your tanks unless you have one. Never dive alone.
Posted under North Island |
The Whangamomona Loop
From Whangamomona township, head down Whangamomona Road onto the track that circles Whangamomona and Okara Forests. The track follows the Whangamomona River, goes through a couple of old road tunnels and comes out at Aotuhia Quarry. From there head up Kuri Stream on a 4WD track called Okara Road. Okara Road climbs out of the Kuri Stream catchment and drops down to the Tangarakau River. From there Putikituna Road climbs up the valley to a junction with Kohuratahi Road. Highway 43 is only 2 km away and leads southwest back to Whangamomona 7 km away. This looks like a good 50 km ride for adventurous mountain bikers.
The Waikato River Rapids
Both of the following areas are excellent spots for paddling.
The Reids Farm Reserve in Wairaki Park is signposted 4 km from Taupo on the true left of the Waikato River. There is good camping beside the river. A slalom course has been set up in this Grade I water, which provides beginners with perfect training opportunities. Warning: Huka Falls (grade VI) is only 1 km down river. Do not attempt these falls.
The Ngaawaparua Rapids (Fulljames, grade III) is the North Island’s most popular kayaking play spot. Turn off the Taupo-Rotorua Road 12 km north of Taupo. Follow the signs for 5 km to the National Equestrian Centre. After 100 metres turn into Aratiatia Rapids Scenic Reserve, drive 4 km and park next to the toilet.
When water is released from the Aratiatia Dam 6 km up river, the rapid is one large wave that can be kayaked, surfed, tubed, or swum. There is a slow deep pool at the bottom in which to recover; the recirculating eddy makes multiple runs a breeze. The land is privately owned. Permission is not required, but respect is.
Volcanic Rock Climbing
Whanganui Bay provides the best rock climbing in the North Island. Set in beautiful surroundings on the western shores of Lake Taupo, it has huge cliffs of volcanic rock with many classic climbs. Access is not easy and the best way to get there is to go with a club.
Motuoapa is another great crag with over 100 climbs. Its cliffs are not as high and the area is not as scenic (although it’s within a scenic reserve). However, they are only a stone’s throw from Highway 1 and there’s a cafe just across the road. The crag is 9 km north of Turangi and can easily be seen from the road.
Whakapapa River Rafting
This River is worked by various commercial rafting and kayaking companies. The Whakapapanui River is located northeast of Mt Ruapehu. As the captain of your own two-person raft, you’re bound to learn a lot from the interesting mishaps you have along the way. Starting below the Matariki Falls, you run grade II to III rapids for 2 hours to the Whakapapa Intake where the river is run dry by diversion into the Waikato catchment for electricity generation. The environmental costs associated with this intake may cause you to think twice every time you switch on a light.
Kayaking over the Tawhai Falls
Ten minutes’ walk through native bush from Highway 48 (the Chateau road) takes you to the Tawhai Falls on the Whakapapanui Stream. This 6 metre drop is safe (at the right flows) and no paddling experience is needed to kayak over it. After a short training session in an inflatable kayak you’re ready to head for the edge. Most people who brace correctly when they hit the water at the bottom stay upright. Those who tip out are helped to the bank by a guide.
Tongariro River Kayak Trip
An excellent Grade III+ trip starts at the Poutu Intake and finishes 13 km downstream at Boulder Pool. To get there turn off Highway 1, 15 km south of Turangi, onto Kaimanawa Road (known as Access 10). The take-out point is 7 km south of Turangi, just over a small bridge across Poutu Stream (known as Boulder Pool). Follow the dirt road to the car park at the river’s edge.
The paddling in this section is technical, with plenty of large bouldery patches. The first rapids are as hard as they’re going to get. If the water level is up, there is an excellent 1.5 metre drop halfway down the river on the true right. Generally the rapids are open and bouldery, and require picking a good line. There are plenty of excellent play spots.
If you’re interested in a fun beginners’ rafting trip, contact the Turangi Information Centre. Trips cost around $50 and take half a day. The very experienced occasionally tube this section.
Taranaki’s main city, New Plymouth, is New Zealand’s sunniest city making it a popular attraction for those who love the outdoors. If you’re going on a Taranaki adventure trip, New Plymouth accommodation offers comfortable places to stay.
Posted under North Island |
Three Kings Islands
Situated 53 km northwest of Cape Reinga are the remote and rugged Three Kings Islands. The clear surrounding waters are home to huge schools of fish, which glide effortlessly through numerous caves lined with prolific marine growth. There is a nearby shipwreck to explore and some excellent areas to experience the thrill of drift diving. The best visibility and most settled conditions are during March, April and May. A six day dive charter costs $900 and is suitable for intermediate to experienced certified scuba divers.
Dolphin Swimming in the Bay of Islands
For centuries dolphins have, with their intelligent curiosity and playful acrobatics, fascinated those who come into contact with them. Interacting with such powerful and graceful creatures in their own environment is an exhilarating experience.
Dolphin Discoveries is the original dolphin swimming company based in North Island, run daily trips from both Russell and Paihia piers out to the Paihia Heads. They use a small boat and take a maximum of 10 people. Wetsuits are provided year-round, even though the water is warm in summer. The 4 hour trip costs $79 for adults and $39 for children, and starts at 8.00 am.
Waru Limestone Bouldering
The Waru Limestone Scenic Reserve is 500 metres north of Hikurangi township (16 km north of Whangarei), beside Highway 1. Fluted formations of weathered limestone provide good bouldering for climbers of all experience levels. Chimneys, overhangs and laybacks await the explorers of these castle-like formations. Contact the Warolodge Homestay which will organise your adventure touring needs for you.
Waipoua Forest
Fifty km northwest of Dargaville stand the remnants of a once-mighty kauri forest called Waipoua. There is a DOC camping ground and information centre 2 km west of Highway 12 at Waipoua Forest. From here, a short walk takes you to the magnificent, 1000-year-old, 50-metre tall trees. From Waipoua Settlement (8 km further down the road), it’s about 10 km of easy cycling through a maze of forestry roads to the coast at Kawarua.
Cycling the Old Gorge Road
This is an excellent trip up the old Waima Gorge Road between Donnellys Crossing and Tutamoe. From Donnellys Crossing (40 km northwest of Dargaville) head northeast on Kaikohe Road, past the ‘Road Closed’ sign. Part of the old Gorge Road was washed out by Cyclone Bola in 1988 and has never been repaired. Continue along the gravel road for 1 km to a wooden barrier, which closes the road to all vehicles. From here ride up Waima Valley on an easy gradient for about an hour. When you break out of the bush onto farmland at the head of the valley, it’s only a further 10 minutes to Tutamoe School; either return the same way (for a fast downhill) or carry on and cycle the Waoku Coach Road.
Abbey Cave Discovery Tours
Abbey Cave near Whangarei is a good cave system for aspiring cavers. For over two hours, groups squeeze, scramble, and partially swim through various passages and caverns. Spectacular limestone formations are illuminated by numerous glow-worms. Trips are run on demand year-round. Conveniently explore the Abbey Caves by staying at Whangarei accommodation.
Posted under South Island |
Paynes Ford
Paynes Ford Scenic Reserve is 4 km south of Takaka in Golden Bay, where Highway 60 crosses the Takaka River. From here, towering limestone cliffs lead up the river. There are many popular, bolted climbing routes on them.
If you don’t have the gear or the inclination for serious climbing but still feel in the mood for a wee adventure, try your hand (and feet) at the traverse problem 100 metres downstream from the bridge. Here the river has cut into the cliffs, leaving a deep pool framed by a grooved, pocked and pitted overhanging cliff face. The traverse to the recessed, stage-like platform is a doddle, but getting beyond there requires consummate skill and a committing right-hand lunge. If you master this move, you’ll find it gets progressively more difficult the further you go. Numerous channels and pocks (some big enough to grovel into and rest) provide entertaining climbing until you finally pump out and peel off, dropping into the cool, reviving river.
Abel Tasman National Park coastal walk
This famous coastal track between Marahau and Wainui Bay attracts tens of thousands of walkers each year. Golden beaches and green native forest, accessible only by boat or foot, make this a pretty amazing place. If you’re keen to check this area out without crashing into people everywhere, go during the calm autumn months rather than summer. Spreading the load of visitors throughout the year also means the Park gets less of a hammering.
Nelson Paragliding
For an exiting one day flying experience or a comprehensive week-long course, contact Cumulus Tandem Paragliding in Nelson. Prices start from $150.
Quinney’s Bush
New Zealand’s most eccentric camping ground is nestled amongst tall trees at Motupiko, about halfway between Nelson and Murchison. Relaxed and ramshackle, Quinney’s Bush is strewn with flying foxes and other dilapidated pieces of industrial-sized playground equipment. A remnant of the 1960s, we rate it as the country’s most adventurous camping ground.
Pelorus Track
The seldom visited Mt Richmond Forest Park is a large bush-clad range, south of Nelson. The most popular tramp in the park starts from Maungatapu road end, 12 km west of Pelorus Bridge on the Blenheim-Nelson Road, and follows the Pelorus River past Roebuck Hut to Totara Saddle (670 m). The track then descends to Hacket picnic area, 30 km drive from Nelson. Another track climbs to the Bryant Range from Midday Hut and descends to Brook Street in Nelson city.
Maungatapu Track
This popular mountain bike trip also starts at the end of Maungatapu Road. An adventurous cycle touring short cut, it crosses the Bryant Range before descending a fast pylon track to Nelson. For more information ask at the local DOC office.
Pelorus River
Turn west off Highway 6 at Pelorus Bridge and drive up Maungatapu Road for 8 km to the Tinline River tributary. The frequently run section is from here down to Pelorus Bridge. There are a number of grade II rapids which rise to grade III after rain.
Many of the people who jump off the Pelorus Bridge do not suffer serious injury. However, we recommend you give this 16 metre fall a miss and satisfy your suicidal tendencies with slightly smaller jumps.
Wakamarina River
The Wakamarina River flows under Highway 6 (the Nelson-Blenheim road) at Canvastown, 10 km west of Havelock. Whakamarina Road takes you 15 km upstream to a DOC camping ground at the road end. From here there are many tight grade III rapids, including some difficult drops and chutes. The hardest one, Tinopener, is about halfway down from the road end, under a footbridge. Keep an eye out for gold claims as you spin and swirl along. This is a great trip for experienced tubers.
Kayaking from Picton to Ship Cove
From Picton paddle across Queen Charlotte Sound to a lovely camp site hidden in the bush at Kumutoto Bay. By the end of the day you should be quite proficient at cutting through, or surfing with, the bow waves of fishing boats and ferries.
Blumine Island, further along Queen Charlotte Sound, is your next destination. It’s a deserted island that only kayakers seem to know about and has an excellent camp site in the large, unnamed western-facing bay. There are some well hidden WWII gun emplacements on the north side of the island that were manned by American soldiers over 50 years ago.
The next day head over to Ship Cove via Motuara Island. The whole of Motuara Island is a bird sanctuary. The wide variety of inhabitants are incredibly tame. Little blue penguins keep an eye on you as you pass only a metre or two away. It’s only a short paddle across to Ship Cove, from where the water taxi can take you and your trusty kayak back to Picton. If you wish to stay in Picton for the weekend, The Waterfront Apartments is highly recommended.
Nelson Lakes Tramping
Nelson Lakes National Park is a marvellous place for trampers of all abilities. An excellent 6 day trip for intermediate trampers heads up the Travers Valley, over Travers Saddle and down the Sabine Valley, to Sabine Hut at the head of Lake Rotoroa (4 days). From Sabine Hut, head out to St Arnaud via the Speargrass Track (2 days). Alternatively, if your party is fit, and the weather looks fine, you can climb over Mt Cedric to Angelus Hut and out via Robert Ridge, or Travers Valley, the next day.
In winter, crampons, ice axes, and a wary eye for avalanches are essential for a safe trip. During summer, wasps can be a serious problem so you should carry medication for stings, such as antihistamine pills. There are plenty of shorter trips to do as well - for more information ask at the DOC visitors centre in St Arnaud.
For more information about other tramping spots in New Zealand, check out the NZ Tramping blog.
Dolphin and Seal Swimming
This is an exciting way to discover these graceful creatures in their natural environment. After being taken out in a small boat, and decked out in a wetsuit, mask and snorkel, jump in the sea and have an exhilarating one-on-one with the dolphins or seals. Book through the Kaikoura Information Centre on the beach front. It costs $35 for seal swimming, and $75 for dolphin swimming.
So enjoy what Marlborough & Nelson in the South island has to offer. Conveniently stay at Nelson accommodation and Marlborough accommodation so you can be close to all the adventure action!
Posted under North Island |
Riverhead Forest
Riverhead is a large pine forest 15 km west of Browns Bay (North Auckland), which has some of the best mountain biking close to Auckland. It’s criss-crossed by gravel roads, 4WD tracks and single track through rolling hills, up to 180 metres high. Most riders cycle up the roads to a high point and then make their way down on the single tracks. Watch out for forestry trucks, motorbikes and war game soldiers. Riverhead Forest is large enough to get lost in for a few hours so get into the exploring spirit of things.
Mount Eden Quarry
Smack bang in the heart of Auckland City, amidst factories, a prison, and a motorway, is one of New Zealand’s best rock climbing areas. The Quarry is a series of jointed volcanic columns towering 20 metres above the Auckland Grammar footie field. These climbs are a real test of rock climbing technique and rely mainly on natural protection; however, bolted climbs are becoming more common. Around the corner, to the right of the main cliff (the Long Wall), are a series of smaller cliffs (the Short Wall).
To get there from the city, go over Grafton Bridge towards Auckland Hospital. Continue along Park Road into Mountain Road, until you reach Auckland Grammar on your right. The cliffs are within the school grounds.
Great Barrier Island
For the adventurous beginner a trip to the Great Barrier Island in the outer Hauraki Gulf would be out of this world. There is so much to do here. Mountain biking, fishing and diving are the main sources of adventure on the island. For the very adventurous, paddling in and around Port Fitzroy is great fun, exploring secret spots, secluded beaches, and interesting historic sites. There is abundant bird and marine life in the coastal nooks and crannies. Onshore you can explore Mt Hobson and the remains of mighty kauri dams, which in days gone by released floods of logs to the coast.
Stony Bay
At the tip of the Coromandel Peninsula, a technical single track connects Stony Bay and Fletchers Bay. This 7 km gap in the road around the peninsula takes 2 to 4 hours to ride each way. Unless you’re cycle touring, head back to Stony Bay on the same track. Avoid riding this track in the middle of summer when it’s crowded. There are camping areas at both ends of the track. Cycle tourers with heavy panniers will find they have to walk some of the track. DOC is at present trying to open up a 4WD alternative to connect these two beautiful bays.
Hahei Marine Reserve
The proposed Hahei Marine Reserve is on the eastern side of the Coromandel Peninsula near Hahei. It stretches from the western end of Hahei Beach to Cooks Bluff, and includes about half of Mahurangi Island. Plans are afoot to set up an underwater trail for snorkellers and divers. This will be an increasingly fine place to explore as the marine life recovers.
Waiwawa River
This is a short scenic trip with about six playful rapids (grade II maximum). Coroglen is on Highway 25, 20 km south of Whitianga on the eastern side of the Coromandel Peninsula. From here take the Tapu Coroglen Road, which follows the Waiwawa River west. On your left, 3 km from Coroglen, there is a 4WD track leading through a few metres of bush to an old concrete-bottomed ford. This is the get-out point and is used as a river-level gauge. If there is enough depth over the ford (10 cm), then you can comfortably tube the short section up river. If the water is brown then it’s too high. Start 3 km up river where the road crosses Taranoho Stream. Immediately on the left after the stream is a gate leading into a grassy area. Put-in at the river 60 metres away.
Hot Water Beach
If you are on the east side of the Coromandel Peninsula, look out for Hot Water Beach. At low tide you can scoop out a hole in the sand and intercept thermally heated water on its way to the sea. Plonk yourself in the hole and enjoy a natural hot water bath. Hot Water Beach is signposted off Highway 25, about 30 km southeast of Whitianga.
Tairua River
The Tairua is a scenic river on the eastern side of the Coromandel Ranges. This grade I+ river is no good for tubing in low summer flows. To get there from Thames, head 6 km south to Kopu and take Highway 25a across the Coromandel Range towards Tairua and Whangamata. Start paddling where the highway bridge crosses the Tairua River, about 23 km from Kopu. Get out 5 km down river, at the Broken Hills camp site (200 metres before passing under a bridge). You can also continue for another 8 km to Hikuai. In this last sedate section there are only a couple of places where the road and river meet. There are some old mine shafts to explore at Broken Hills. As the southern section of Puketui Road has been washed out, access to Broken Hills is gained via Hikuai.
Thompsons Track
This 20 km crossing of the Kaimai Range takes intermediate riders 2-3 hours. Turn off Highway 2 onto Thompsons Track Road, about 30 km west of Tauranga. You can cycle right over the range to Shaftesbury, or just to the top and back. There are a few big bogs, including one real bike-gobbler at the start. It is mostly 4WD track with the only turn-offs being walking tracks, so navigation is easy.
Posted under North Island |
Northern Crossing
For experienced trampers this Tararua crossing, northwest of Masterton, takes 2.5 days. It’s a less developed and wilder version of the Southern Crossing. The ability to follow rough tracks and use a map and compass is essential. When in Masterton staying a few nights at the Masterton Motor Lodge is highly recommended.
If doing this trip in a weekend, start at the end of Upper Waingawa Road (14 km northwest of Masterton) and head into Mitre Flats Hut on Friday night (3 hours). On Saturday, tramp over the tussocky tops to Te Matawai Hut via Mitre, Tarn Ridge, the rugged Waiohine Pinnacles and Arete. An early start is essential as this is a long day (8-12 hours). Both Tarn Ridge Hut, beside the track, and Arete Bivvy, 200 metres off the main route, are good for emergency shelters but not much else.
In fine weather the easiest and most scenic way out from Te Matawai Hut is via South Ohau Stream. If the stream is up, the Gable End track is best. Alpine experience is required in winter.
Karapoti Classic
The Akatarawa is a large area of hilly forest about 10 km northwest of Upper Hutt that has gravel roads and 4WD tracks running through it. It is one of Wellington’s best mountain biking areas, and amongst other excellent rides boasts the renowned Karapoti Classic. For an adventure in this forest, plan a trip (make sure someone at home knows all about it), and then go for it. If you’ve already done the Karapoti, and would like an alterative, head in from Paraparaumu and do the loop anti-clockwise.
Lower Waiohine Gorge
The Waiohine River flows out of the Tararua Ranges onto the Wairarapa plains 10km west of Carterton. To get there drive 4 km north of Greytown on Highway 2 and take the signposted roads to Walls Whare car park at the end of Waiohine Gorge Road. Take note of the exit point about 5 km past the end of the tarseal, where the road drops down to the river level. Launching from Walls Whare gives you about 5 km of scenic grade I and II tubing or kayaking. Watch out for the occasional steel stake poking out of the water and portage the big log jam just below the car park.
Another good trip for intermediate tubers is the Waiohine River, from Totara Flats down to Walls Whare. This involves a tramp in, followed by 2-3 hours floating down through a series of grade II rapids.
Makara to Red Rocks
This walk, along a section of Wellington’s wild and rugged southwest coastline, can be done in one very long day or two easy ones. It involves everything from beach walking to cliff climbing (optional!). There’s a seal colony at Red Rocks. It’s only possible to walk the coastal section at the Makara end during low tide, but there is an inland alternative. Tide times are different on the southern and eastern sides of the coast.
Baring Head
Wellington’s most popular local rock climbing area is located on the Wainuiomata coast, east of the harbour entrance. Half a dozen solid greywacke outcrops sit on the beach like sunbathing armadillos. Baring Head provides good bouldering for both beginners and rock climbing gymnasts, and is the scene of annual climbing competitions.
It takes nearly an hour to drive through Petone, over the hill and down the Wainuiomata Valley. As soon as you reach the coast, park in the gravel pit next to the Wainuiomata River. From here it’s a 20 minute walk west to the rocks that can be seen in the distance. Which route you take depends on the state of the river. A good rule of thumb is to cross at the car park if you can, otherwise walk along to the mouth. Be careful crossing here - it’s a long cold swim to Antarctica.
A healthy alternative to driving is to catch the Days Bay ferry from Wellington and cycle around the coast to Baring Head. This pleasant ride along a gravel road takes about an hour.
Wharf Jumping
Next time you’re bored on a summer afternoon, try wharf jumping. It’s quite a simple activity really. First pick a good wharf - not too high, not too low and with no safety rails on the end. Days Bay in Wellington has a wharf that’s just right. Calmly cycle down to it and accelerate along its full length - don’t stop. If you’re still bored by the time you hit the water, see a psychiatrist.
Posted under Tips & Advice |
If you want to get the most out of your next adventure trip, then you need to buy the right gear. This comprehensive guide will ensure that you’ll venture farther and enjoy yourself more. The following information is relevant to all outdoor adventures in New Zealand.
Before you go…
Before your trip get as much information as possible by reading guide books, talking to the staff at the local DOC office or visiting your local outdoors club. Leave your trip intentions with someone responsible at home, or at a DOC visitors centre. Always take a good map. A compass, and the ability to use it is essential for some of the adventures featured on this blog.
First aid
For every adventure take a good first aid kit. At the very minimum take a bandage, sterile gauze pads, adhesive tape, a needle, painkillers, sunburn cream, waterproof paper and pencil, and any special medication needed (for asthmatics, etc). However, the most important thing of all to take is a good knowledge of first aid. Go on a first aid course and buy an outdoor first aid manual.
Camping
Choose a well drained camp site that isn’t likely to become an island or a lake if it rains. If cooking over a fire, light it downwind, as sparks easily melt through nylon tents. In really wet conditions it may not be possible to light a fire so it is always advisable to take a portable stove.
Weather
The weather in New Zealand is very difficult to predict. Be prepared for extremes at any time of year, especially if heading above the bush line.
Hypothermia
Hypothermia is caused by exposure to cold, wet or windy weather conditions. If a person in your party appears exhausted, uncoordinated or claims not to be cold when everyone else is freezing, they probably have hypothermia. You must act quickly to save his or her life.
Set up an emergency camp immediately. Get them out of the wind and rain, put dry clothes on and get them into a sleeping bag with someone else (not someone who is also developing the symptoms). Do not massage, do not give alcohol, do not apply heat quickly, and, most important, do not push on to make it to a hut. The little heat they have left must not be drawn away from their internal organs. If they are conscious, give them warm sweet drinks. If there is no sign of improvement, go for help.
Food
Take whatever you want, and eat as much as you can, as long as you can carry it. Remember though that food is your fuel and it must have a high energy content. Many outdoor books give a comprehensive list of the types of food that are best to take. You don’t have to buy expensive, dehydrated, freeze-dried mush. Don’t forget billies to cook it in and cutlery to eat it with. Also take lots of snacks that don’t require cooking (biscuits, chocolate bars, fruit, etc).
Rivers
Most New Zealand rivers rise and fall within a matter of hours (sometimes less) during heavy rain. Never attempt to cross, float or paddle down, a flooded river. Apart from their obvious swollen nature, flooded rivers can be recognised by their brown colour and the faint rumbling sound of boulders being swept downstream. Crossing rivers even in normal flows can be a major danger in the back country. Rivers often require experience to cross safely and/or patience to wait until their level drops.
Tents
A tent fly (large square of nylon with guy ropes attached) is perfectly adequate for camping below the bushline. However, an insect-proof tent makes life a lot more bearable in the sandfly and mosquito-infested South Island forests. Tents come in two main designs: the old-fashioned A-frame, and the tunnel, tube or dome tent. Tube tents are strong, waterproof and lightweight, but also expensive. A-frame tents are cheap and roomy, but heavier than tube tents.
Sleeping bags
Basically there are two types of sleeping bag: synthetic or down. Synthetic bags are cheap but bulky and heavy. Down bags (filled with fine duck or goose feathers) are very warm for their weight and compact well, but cost an arm and a leg (and a few ducks). Down bags are next to useless when wet; synthetic ones are better. To keep sleeping bags dry, always pack them in a plastic bag inside the stuff sack.
Sleeping mats
A closed cell foam mat is the most commonly used insulation between you and the cold ground. They cost about $15 and are light, waterproof and warm. The inflatable Thermarest is waterproof, warm, comfortable, and expensive (unless it gets punctured, in which case it’s only expensive).
Stoves
Stoves are an easier and more environmentally sound alternative to fires. There are several types on the market but two of the best are the MSR for a high heat output, lightweight, easily maintained, high altitude (and possibly multi-fuelled) stove, and the methylated-spirits fuelled Trangia for a low cost, low maintenance, lightweight stove.
Fuel
White spirit for camping stoves is sold at most petrol stations and comes under four different brand names: Shellite or Shell X55 (Shell), Calite (Caltex), Britolite (BP), and Pegasol AA (Mobil). Methylated spirits and kerosene are widely available.
Clothes
For any trip into an isolated area you’ll need a rainproof parka/jacket and warm clothes. Waterproof-breathable materials such as Goretex and Reflex are comfortable but expensive. Japara or PVC raincoats do the job almost as well, for a fraction of the cost.
You’ll need at least three warm tops and one or two warm bottoms, made out of materials such as wool, polypropylene, or polarfleece. There’s not much difference in the performance of wool compared to synthetics. Wool is warm in very wet conditions. Synthetics are light and fast drying (they’re also quite flammable). Most of the wool clothes you need can be bought for a few dollars at the local Op shop. Cotton is next to useless when it’s wet. Also take warm socks, a hat or balaclava, windproof over-trousers, and gloves or mittens. Pack everything inside a plastic rubbish bag or pack liner to keep it dry.
Other essential items
Always take a torch (with spare bulb and batteries), candle and matches, water bottle, pocket knife, toilet paper, map and compass.
For all outdoor activities, except caving, you should take good sunglasses and sunscreen (factor 15+). They are absolutely essential for sea kayaking and snow travel.
Survival Kit
In the event of being lost or trapped in the bush, this tiny little kit will become invaluable for your survival. Pack it into a plastic bag inside a waterproof container, and carry it in your bumbag or pack:
- Waterproof matches (packed inside a film canister)
- Waterproof paper and a small pencil
- Half a candle
- Pocket knife or razor blade
- Small roll of Leucoplast tape
- Fish hooks and a few metres of line
- Length of cord
- Survival bag or blanket
- Whistle.
Posted under Tips & Advice |
Rob Roy Glacier Track
This excellent day tramp in Wanaka takes you up to the head of Rob Roy Stream, amongst the peaks of Mount Aspiring National Park. The shattered faces of Rob Roy Peak are exposed beneath massive ice falls. There is an open basin at the head of the valley, which is a brilliant place to spend a hot summer’s day. This trip is one of the most spectacular day walks in the region and takes 4-6 hours return.
Skippers Canyon
For an excellent day ride with lots of variety and brilliant scenery, try Skippers Canyon. Head out of Queenstown on Arthurs Point Road and ride up to Skippers Saddle (930 m). From there you can take the old pack track to the right of the road. It’s a neat little single track that rejoins Skippers Road about a third of the way to Skippers Bridge. At the bridge you can watch bungy jumpers plummet 71 metres into the canyon. Over the bridge and 1 km further on is a picnic and camping area with fresh tap water. From there several adventurous day trips can be done. All you need is a map and a keen sense for exploration.
Shotover River Rafting
This is the most commercially rafted river in the South Island. The commonly rafted section is from Deep Creek in Skippers Canyon to Arthurs Point. With medium to high river flows, it’s an excellent grade IV rafting trip. At low flow, however, it’s not what the marketing videos would have you believe. Following the Mother Rapid, the final thrill is rafting through the pitch black Oxenbridge Tunnel - an old gold mining water race. The river is run by every rafting company in Queenstown. Just walk down the main street to get an idea of who offers what in terms of trips and prices. The approximate cost is $55 for a 2 hour trip.
Skippers Bungy Jump
Bungying is the process of leaping from a colossal height with a high tech rubber band tied around your ankles. Ten years ago it would have probably turned up in our lunatic category.
Looming 71 metres above the Shotover River, Skippers Bridge is first glimpsed by many through the bow spray of a Skippers Jetboat. Peering up from the bottom of this dark canyon will probably fill you with dread rather than joy.
With an insane cheerfulness your name is called. Your feet are then attached to the end of that famous umbilical cord. Any urge you may have had to throw yourself irrationally from a high place disappears completely. Madly hoping that thoughts are the only thing about to go through your head, you inch your way out on the little board extending from the bridge. Peer pressure is a baffling thing, and very soon you’ll notice that your brain has told your body to leap. Whistling air is followed by relief and you’ll realise, with the courage of hindsight, that the secret behind its success is making something that is completely safe look utterly lethal.
Jump costs start at $145, depending on your choice of transport. A smaller jump at the Kawarau Bridge costs $89. Book through any adventure office in Queenstown. Remember, to be cool in Queenstown use your initials only - definitely no first names.
Tandem Paragliding
A tandem paraglider enables two people to fly together. Absolute beginners can fly with an instructor, riding the thermals above Queenstown for up to 45 minutes. Flights cost from $150 for early bird bookings. Contact Queenstown Tandem Paraglide for an exhilarating paragliding flight from the top of the Skyline Gondola, which overlooks stunning Queenstown and the beautiful Lake Wakatipu.
Rees-Dart Track
A popular intermediate tramp in the Queenstown area is the 4-6 day (70 km) Rees-Dart track. After walking up the Rees Valley you cross over Rees Saddle (1506 m), and descend into the headwaters of the Dart River. From here the track follows the Dart River down valley, amongst spectacular scenery.
There are four huts, plenty of secluded camping spots and several rock bivouacs. From the shelter of the bush deep within the mountains, keen trampers can do some great day trips. On a good day you could zip up to Cascade Saddle for some great views, checking out the Dart Glacier on the way.
This area has more than its share of sand flies. The road ends, 20 km drive from each other, are well serviced by public transport from November to April. For more information contact DOC in Queenstown.
Routeburn Track
The historic Routeburn Track was once part of the route connecting Queenstown with the now-defunct settlement of Jamestown on Fiordland’s west coast. In recent times it has become one of the country’s most popular alpine walks.
Most trampers take 2-3 days to cover the 40 km track across Harris Saddle (1280 m) to the head of Lake Wakatipu and the Milford-Te Anau Road. This high quality track slips through some dramatic alpine country as it crosses over the main divide to the rainforested Hollyford Valley in the west. From Harris Saddle there are stunning views across to the Darren Mountains. This section of track is also exposed to the full brunt of any foul weather, so go well equipped. You may find some solitude if you wander off on side trips (such as Conical Hill) but if you want to avoid crowds, go elsewhere. Try the Greenstone or Caples valleys, they’re not so crowded and there are plenty of camp sites.
From November to April there is plenty of public transport servicing both ends of the track. A winter crossing requires alpine equipment and skills. Camping within 500 metres of the track is prohibited. For more information ask DOC in Queenstown.
Eyre Mountains
The Eyre Mountains, just south of Queenstown, provide excellent wilderness opportunities for the experienced ski-tourer. There are no public huts so tents, or a snow shovel for snow caving, must be taken. Access permission must be obtained from the Landcorp stations Cainard, and Eyre Creek. You can drive about 10 km from Highway 6, up either Mataura Creek or Eyre Creek, from where you may have to walk several kilometres - it all depends on the snow level.
Milford Track
The Milford Track, in Fiordland National Park, connects the head of Lake Te Anau with Milford Sound. From Lake Te Anau it follows the West Branch of the Clinton River up to Mackinnon Pass (1073 m), before descending to Milford Sound, via Arthur River and Lake Ada to Milford Sound. Its international fame, combined with its magnificent beauty, has made this trip so popular that it has become the first of New Zealand’s tramps to need restrictions on the number of walkers. This has stopped the place being trampled to death and gives walkers more space to enjoy themselves. Bookings need to be made well in advance through the Tourist Hotel Corporation - March to April is the quietest time. If you feel this is a bit much bureaucracy for a get-away-from-it-all trip, you’re not the only one.
The walking season is from November to April. During winter, transport is scarce, the pass is treacherous and avalanches are a danger. Camping within 500 metres of the track is prohibited. For more information ask DOC at Te Anau.
Percy Pass
Percy Pass, just southwest of the spectacular Lake Manapouri, is one of the most challenging mountain bike routes in New Zealand. From Manapouri township catch the tourist boat to the West Arm of the lake. Then simply follow the pylon track, under the power station transmission lines, to the top of Percy Pass. The track ends here, and to continue you must carry/drag your bike through thick bush for 1.5 uncharted kilometres. If you use the transmission lines above as a guide then you’ll pick up another pylon track that heads southeast to Monowai. From there it’s about 40 km back to Manapouri. The whole trip takes about two days.
The day trip from West Arm over to Doubtful Sound and back again is also very rewarding.
Kayak Dragging
For a full-on out of control adventure, try kayak dragging. This is a highly evolved version of water skiing. Substitute the skis with a plastic kayak, the boat with a car and use a wet paddock as your lake.
Sit in the kayak, but leave your legs sticking out over the front deck. This means that if you wipe out, you can vacate your plastic missile quickly - kayaks don’t come with roll bars (yet). Grab hold of a 10 metre tow line and ask someone you trust to drive the car. Never tie the rope to yourself or the kayak, just hold on to it.
This is a great spectator sport. It’s interesting to see which destructs first; car, kayak or kayaker.
Posted under South Island |
This series of articles has been designed to provide the ‘independent traveler’ with suggestions as to where to go, and what scenic sights to visit, in New Zealand’s South Island. Visitors agree that the South Island has by far the most stunning scenery within New Zealand, and areas of wilderness which are unrivaled anywhere in the world.
Because of the relative remoteness and small size of the population centres, however, it can be difficult for the overseas visitor to obtain adequate information about the wilderness spots that make a visit to the South Island so memorable. This article will hopefully be of some help. The readers for whom the travelogue will probably be most useful are those wishing to have a:
- tramping/walking or camping/backpacking
- botanical tours
- photography/painting
- birdwatching
- ‘away-from-it-all in a safe part of the world’ eco tourism
type of a vacation. It doesn’t really cater for ‘activities-R-us’ type people who would prefer a guided tour of NZ bungy jumping, for example; or anyone who is interested in local history to any extent.
Information regarding native flora, climate, recommended ‘away from it all’ accommodation for the independent traveler, and daily weather forecasts is included. Not all areas include accommodation recommendations however; it depends whether there is a particularly unusual and/or pleasant place to stay in that locality. You can check out the New Zealand Accommodation directory for other accommodation in New Zealand.
Click on the South Island destinations above to get more information about the attractions and accommodation available in each region.