Archives for North Island category
Posted under North Island |
Few visitors to North Island, New Zealand come away without stars in their eyes. This is a land of incredible scenic beauty, a marvellous diversity of things to see and do, and the people are always friendly. This country’s three-million-plus citizens must be some of the friendliest, most naturally-hospitable people on earth.
Auckland, the first stop for today’s international visitors, is a beautiful harbourside city of one million people. On sunny weekends the harbour is dotted with myriads of colourful sails and it is no coincidence that New Zealanders are some of the world’s best sailors. It is as natural for young people here to learn to sail as it is to drive.
Positioned on a narrow isthmus, the city has the shallow sandy waters of Manukau Harbour on one side and the deep Waitemata Harbour (’Sea of Sparkling Water’) on the other. Extinct volcanoes, some once used as Maori fortifications, dot Auckland. Most, like One Tree Hill, have been made into public parks and gardens.
Buildings in Auckland are a mix of old and new, with modern structures alongside turn-of-the-century colonial architecture. When you are tired of strolling the streets, looking at buildings like the 1868 Supreme Court, the Renaissance-style Customs House and the Auckland City Art Gallery, head for the Auckland War Memorial Museum, with its enormous collection of Maori artifacts, including a 25 metre long war canoe.
Don’t miss seeing the suburb of Parnell. Turn-of-the-century shops here have been tastefully restored or replicated and now house elegant restaurants and boutiques offering a range of made-in-New-Zealand handicrafts, woollens and souvenirs. You’ll also want to visit the Zoological Gardens to see the flightless Kiwi bird that is New Zealand’s national symbol. Almost extinct at one stage, numbers are now increasing, but the visitors’ only sure way to see a Kiwi is right here.
A great day-trip from Auckland is the Coromandel Peninsula, where one can still see some giant Kauri trees that escaped the zealous axes of early woodcutters. Sadly, you will also notice a large number of other native tree skeletons, killed by having all their foliage stripped and eaten by possums. These were introduced from Australia for their fur, and now that fur coats are no longer popular, have run rampant and are now a noxious pest in New Zealand.
Don’t miss Rotorua, the North Island’s most popular destination. You are likely to smell it long before you get there. Many New Zealanders call it ‘Sulphur City’, and for good reason. The bubbling sulphuric mud and hot springs take quite a toll of your sense of smell, but it’s worth it! In fact, water from the sulphur springs has therapeutic properties for alleviating arthritis, circulatory problems and other ailments.
Most people come to Rotorua for the sightseeing. Here one can visit Ohinemuti Maori Village, rub noses (the customary Maori greeting) with the villagers, and watch Maori women dance the graceful Poi dance. Meanwhile the men, some with traditionally tattooed faces, perform the fierce Haka war dance, stamping feet and poking out their tongues in frightening fashion.
Brave the particularly-sulphurous smell of the naturally-heated ponds and lakes of Whakarewarewa (Whaka for short). If your nostrils can stand that one, you’re immune to all the others! Watch geysers suddenly erupt into life at the Pohutu, spraying hot water onto any careless tourists straying within range.
At the Rainbow Springs trout farm these magnificent fish can be observed in the crystal-clear spring water. You can even watch them underwater via a strategically-placed glass wall. Trout here grow to unbelievably large sizes, perhaps because visitors can enthusiastically feed them by hand.
You won’t run out of things to see or do. The Agrodome at Ngongotaha holds regular sheep shearing demonstrations leaving visitors enthralled and sheep looking semi-naked. New Zealand’s sheep population far outnumbers its people and are the centre of all kinds of New Zealand jokes. But sheep are not to be taken lightly. Wool, along with mutton and lamb, is a very major New Zealand export and keeps the country’s economy going.
Continuing south from Rotorua one comes to Lake Taupo with some of the best watersports, trout fishing, and great scenery.
A little further south still is the Tongariro National Park with Mount Tongariro, Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe. In winter this is the North Island’s premier snowfield and skiing area. Yet Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe both still have some volcanic activity, and you will frequently see the summits giving off steam or smoke. If golf or hunting are more to your liking, you won’t be disappointed either. The area offers some of New Zealand’s best golf, and if you want to go hunting, this can usually be arranged through the hotel or lodge at which you are staying.
South again, and you reach Wellington at the bottom of the North Island. With a population of 350,000, this is New Zealand’s administrative capital, and is known to locals as ‘Windy Wellington’ . And for good reason! The city is in a natural wind tunnel and it is a rare day that Wellington experiences less than a stiff breeze. On really blowy days one literally has to lean into the wind to make any headway.
One of Wellington’s major characteristics is the number of beautifully maintained wooden buildings from the turn-of-the-century, giving the city a charming olde-worlde atmosphere. Before leaving Wellington, visit the biggest of these - the old Government Buildings. Constructed in 1867, this 4-storey giant is the second largest wooden building in the world (the largest being the TodjaJi Temple in Nara, Japan). Then look at the Beehive Building which is the current Parliament House and is interesting for its architecture and, occasionally, even for its politicians.
One other ‘must do’ in Wellington. Go to the cable car terminal on Lampton Quay. But don’t be tempted by the many shops here till after you come back from the cable car ride. This takes you for a ten minute climb in a pre-war cog-wheel tramway, up to the hilltop Botanic Gardens. The panorama of Wellington spread out below is well worth the trip.
When to go:
New Zealand’s weather is relatively mild the whole year round, but the best times to go are from September (Spring) through Xmas (Summer) to around May (Fall). Remember that in the Southern Hemisphere seasons exactly opposite to those of North America, Europe and most of Asia).
Recommended Airline:
If you have never travelled on Air New Zealand before, you’re in for a treat. It’s an outstanding airline with modern Boeings, memorable in-flight service, excellent cuisine and a little touch of New Zealand friendliness that will delight you. And Air New Zealand offices can give you helpful, friendly advice wherever you travel in that country. They also offer frequent connecting services to Australia and/or Bali.
Posted under North Island |
The Whangamomona Loop
From Whangamomona township, head down Whangamomona Road onto the track that circles Whangamomona and Okara Forests. The track follows the Whangamomona River, goes through a couple of old road tunnels and comes out at Aotuhia Quarry. From there head up Kuri Stream on a 4WD track called Okara Road. Okara Road climbs out of the Kuri Stream catchment and drops down to the Tangarakau River. From there Putikituna Road climbs up the valley to a junction with Kohuratahi Road. Highway 43 is only 2 km away and leads southwest back to Whangamomona 7 km away. This looks like a good 50 km ride for adventurous mountain bikers.
The Waikato River Rapids
Both of the following areas are excellent spots for paddling.
The Reids Farm Reserve in Wairaki Park is signposted 4 km from Taupo on the true left of the Waikato River. There is good camping beside the river. A slalom course has been set up in this Grade I water, which provides beginners with perfect training opportunities. Warning: Huka Falls (grade VI) is only 1 km down river. Do not attempt these falls.
The Ngaawaparua Rapids (Fulljames, grade III) is the North Island’s most popular kayaking play spot. Turn off the Taupo-Rotorua Road 12 km north of Taupo. Follow the signs for 5 km to the National Equestrian Centre. After 100 metres turn into Aratiatia Rapids Scenic Reserve, drive 4 km and park next to the toilet.
When water is released from the Aratiatia Dam 6 km up river, the rapid is one large wave that can be kayaked, surfed, tubed, or swum. There is a slow deep pool at the bottom in which to recover; the recirculating eddy makes multiple runs a breeze. The land is privately owned. Permission is not required, but respect is.
Volcanic Rock Climbing
Whanganui Bay provides the best rock climbing in the North Island. Set in beautiful surroundings on the western shores of Lake Taupo, it has huge cliffs of volcanic rock with many classic climbs. Access is not easy and the best way to get there is to go with a club.
Motuoapa is another great crag with over 100 climbs. Its cliffs are not as high and the area is not as scenic (although it’s within a scenic reserve). However, they are only a stone’s throw from Highway 1 and there’s a cafe just across the road. The crag is 9 km north of Turangi and can easily be seen from the road.
Whakapapa River Rafting
This River is worked by various commercial rafting and kayaking companies. The Whakapapanui River is located northeast of Mt Ruapehu. As the captain of your own two-person raft, you’re bound to learn a lot from the interesting mishaps you have along the way. Starting below the Matariki Falls, you run grade II to III rapids for 2 hours to the Whakapapa Intake where the river is run dry by diversion into the Waikato catchment for electricity generation. The environmental costs associated with this intake may cause you to think twice every time you switch on a light.
Kayaking over the Tawhai Falls
Ten minutes’ walk through native bush from Highway 48 (the Chateau road) takes you to the Tawhai Falls on the Whakapapanui Stream. This 6 metre drop is safe (at the right flows) and no paddling experience is needed to kayak over it. After a short training session in an inflatable kayak you’re ready to head for the edge. Most people who brace correctly when they hit the water at the bottom stay upright. Those who tip out are helped to the bank by a guide.
Tongariro River Kayak Trip
An excellent Grade III+ trip starts at the Poutu Intake and finishes 13 km downstream at Boulder Pool. To get there turn off Highway 1, 15 km south of Turangi, onto Kaimanawa Road (known as Access 10). The take-out point is 7 km south of Turangi, just over a small bridge across Poutu Stream (known as Boulder Pool). Follow the dirt road to the car park at the river’s edge.
The paddling in this section is technical, with plenty of large bouldery patches. The first rapids are as hard as they’re going to get. If the water level is up, there is an excellent 1.5 metre drop halfway down the river on the true right. Generally the rapids are open and bouldery, and require picking a good line. There are plenty of excellent play spots.
If you’re interested in a fun beginners’ rafting trip, contact the Turangi Information Centre. Trips cost around $50 and take half a day. The very experienced occasionally tube this section.
Taranaki’s main city, New Plymouth, is New Zealand’s sunniest city making it a popular attraction for those who love the outdoors. If you’re going on a Taranaki adventure trip, New Plymouth accommodation offers comfortable places to stay.
Posted under North Island |
Three Kings Islands
Situated 53 km northwest of Cape Reinga are the remote and rugged Three Kings Islands. The clear surrounding waters are home to huge schools of fish, which glide effortlessly through numerous caves lined with prolific marine growth. There is a nearby shipwreck to explore and some excellent areas to experience the thrill of drift diving. The best visibility and most settled conditions are during March, April and May. A six day dive charter costs $900 and is suitable for intermediate to experienced certified scuba divers.
Dolphin Swimming in the Bay of Islands
For centuries dolphins have, with their intelligent curiosity and playful acrobatics, fascinated those who come into contact with them. Interacting with such powerful and graceful creatures in their own environment is an exhilarating experience.
Dolphin Discoveries is the original dolphin swimming company based in North Island, run daily trips from both Russell and Paihia piers out to the Paihia Heads. They use a small boat and take a maximum of 10 people. Wetsuits are provided year-round, even though the water is warm in summer. The 4 hour trip costs $79 for adults and $39 for children, and starts at 8.00 am.
Waru Limestone Bouldering
The Waru Limestone Scenic Reserve is 500 metres north of Hikurangi township (16 km north of Whangarei), beside Highway 1. Fluted formations of weathered limestone provide good bouldering for climbers of all experience levels. Chimneys, overhangs and laybacks await the explorers of these castle-like formations. Contact the Warolodge Homestay which will organise your adventure touring needs for you.
Waipoua Forest
Fifty km northwest of Dargaville stand the remnants of a once-mighty kauri forest called Waipoua. There is a DOC camping ground and information centre 2 km west of Highway 12 at Waipoua Forest. From here, a short walk takes you to the magnificent, 1000-year-old, 50-metre tall trees. From Waipoua Settlement (8 km further down the road), it’s about 10 km of easy cycling through a maze of forestry roads to the coast at Kawarua.
Cycling the Old Gorge Road
This is an excellent trip up the old Waima Gorge Road between Donnellys Crossing and Tutamoe. From Donnellys Crossing (40 km northwest of Dargaville) head northeast on Kaikohe Road, past the ‘Road Closed’ sign. Part of the old Gorge Road was washed out by Cyclone Bola in 1988 and has never been repaired. Continue along the gravel road for 1 km to a wooden barrier, which closes the road to all vehicles. From here ride up Waima Valley on an easy gradient for about an hour. When you break out of the bush onto farmland at the head of the valley, it’s only a further 10 minutes to Tutamoe School; either return the same way (for a fast downhill) or carry on and cycle the Waoku Coach Road.
Abbey Cave Discovery Tours
Abbey Cave near Whangarei is a good cave system for aspiring cavers. For over two hours, groups squeeze, scramble, and partially swim through various passages and caverns. Spectacular limestone formations are illuminated by numerous glow-worms. Trips are run on demand year-round. Conveniently explore the Abbey Caves by staying at Whangarei accommodation.
Posted under North Island |
Riverhead Forest
Riverhead is a large pine forest 15 km west of Browns Bay (North Auckland), which has some of the best mountain biking close to Auckland. It’s criss-crossed by gravel roads, 4WD tracks and single track through rolling hills, up to 180 metres high. Most riders cycle up the roads to a high point and then make their way down on the single tracks. Watch out for forestry trucks, motorbikes and war game soldiers. Riverhead Forest is large enough to get lost in for a few hours so get into the exploring spirit of things.
Mount Eden Quarry
Smack bang in the heart of Auckland City, amidst factories, a prison, and a motorway, is one of New Zealand’s best rock climbing areas. The Quarry is a series of jointed volcanic columns towering 20 metres above the Auckland Grammar footie field. These climbs are a real test of rock climbing technique and rely mainly on natural protection; however, bolted climbs are becoming more common. Around the corner, to the right of the main cliff (the Long Wall), are a series of smaller cliffs (the Short Wall).
To get there from the city, go over Grafton Bridge towards Auckland Hospital. Continue along Park Road into Mountain Road, until you reach Auckland Grammar on your right. The cliffs are within the school grounds.
Great Barrier Island
For the adventurous beginner a trip to the Great Barrier Island in the outer Hauraki Gulf would be out of this world. There is so much to do here. Mountain biking, fishing and diving are the main sources of adventure on the island. For the very adventurous, paddling in and around Port Fitzroy is great fun, exploring secret spots, secluded beaches, and interesting historic sites. There is abundant bird and marine life in the coastal nooks and crannies. Onshore you can explore Mt Hobson and the remains of mighty kauri dams, which in days gone by released floods of logs to the coast.
Stony Bay
At the tip of the Coromandel Peninsula, a technical single track connects Stony Bay and Fletchers Bay. This 7 km gap in the road around the peninsula takes 2 to 4 hours to ride each way. Unless you’re cycle touring, head back to Stony Bay on the same track. Avoid riding this track in the middle of summer when it’s crowded. There are camping areas at both ends of the track. Cycle tourers with heavy panniers will find they have to walk some of the track. DOC is at present trying to open up a 4WD alternative to connect these two beautiful bays.
Hahei Marine Reserve
The proposed Hahei Marine Reserve is on the eastern side of the Coromandel Peninsula near Hahei. It stretches from the western end of Hahei Beach to Cooks Bluff, and includes about half of Mahurangi Island. Plans are afoot to set up an underwater trail for snorkellers and divers. This will be an increasingly fine place to explore as the marine life recovers.
Waiwawa River
This is a short scenic trip with about six playful rapids (grade II maximum). Coroglen is on Highway 25, 20 km south of Whitianga on the eastern side of the Coromandel Peninsula. From here take the Tapu Coroglen Road, which follows the Waiwawa River west. On your left, 3 km from Coroglen, there is a 4WD track leading through a few metres of bush to an old concrete-bottomed ford. This is the get-out point and is used as a river-level gauge. If there is enough depth over the ford (10 cm), then you can comfortably tube the short section up river. If the water is brown then it’s too high. Start 3 km up river where the road crosses Taranoho Stream. Immediately on the left after the stream is a gate leading into a grassy area. Put-in at the river 60 metres away.
Hot Water Beach
If you are on the east side of the Coromandel Peninsula, look out for Hot Water Beach. At low tide you can scoop out a hole in the sand and intercept thermally heated water on its way to the sea. Plonk yourself in the hole and enjoy a natural hot water bath. Hot Water Beach is signposted off Highway 25, about 30 km southeast of Whitianga.
Tairua River
The Tairua is a scenic river on the eastern side of the Coromandel Ranges. This grade I+ river is no good for tubing in low summer flows. To get there from Thames, head 6 km south to Kopu and take Highway 25a across the Coromandel Range towards Tairua and Whangamata. Start paddling where the highway bridge crosses the Tairua River, about 23 km from Kopu. Get out 5 km down river, at the Broken Hills camp site (200 metres before passing under a bridge). You can also continue for another 8 km to Hikuai. In this last sedate section there are only a couple of places where the road and river meet. There are some old mine shafts to explore at Broken Hills. As the southern section of Puketui Road has been washed out, access to Broken Hills is gained via Hikuai.
Thompsons Track
This 20 km crossing of the Kaimai Range takes intermediate riders 2-3 hours. Turn off Highway 2 onto Thompsons Track Road, about 30 km west of Tauranga. You can cycle right over the range to Shaftesbury, or just to the top and back. There are a few big bogs, including one real bike-gobbler at the start. It is mostly 4WD track with the only turn-offs being walking tracks, so navigation is easy.
Posted under North Island |
Northern Crossing
For experienced trampers this Tararua crossing, northwest of Masterton, takes 2.5 days. It’s a less developed and wilder version of the Southern Crossing. The ability to follow rough tracks and use a map and compass is essential. When in Masterton staying a few nights at the Masterton Motor Lodge is highly recommended.
If doing this trip in a weekend, start at the end of Upper Waingawa Road (14 km northwest of Masterton) and head into Mitre Flats Hut on Friday night (3 hours). On Saturday, tramp over the tussocky tops to Te Matawai Hut via Mitre, Tarn Ridge, the rugged Waiohine Pinnacles and Arete. An early start is essential as this is a long day (8-12 hours). Both Tarn Ridge Hut, beside the track, and Arete Bivvy, 200 metres off the main route, are good for emergency shelters but not much else.
In fine weather the easiest and most scenic way out from Te Matawai Hut is via South Ohau Stream. If the stream is up, the Gable End track is best. Alpine experience is required in winter.
Karapoti Classic
The Akatarawa is a large area of hilly forest about 10 km northwest of Upper Hutt that has gravel roads and 4WD tracks running through it. It is one of Wellington’s best mountain biking areas, and amongst other excellent rides boasts the renowned Karapoti Classic. For an adventure in this forest, plan a trip (make sure someone at home knows all about it), and then go for it. If you’ve already done the Karapoti, and would like an alterative, head in from Paraparaumu and do the loop anti-clockwise.
Lower Waiohine Gorge
The Waiohine River flows out of the Tararua Ranges onto the Wairarapa plains 10km west of Carterton. To get there drive 4 km north of Greytown on Highway 2 and take the signposted roads to Walls Whare car park at the end of Waiohine Gorge Road. Take note of the exit point about 5 km past the end of the tarseal, where the road drops down to the river level. Launching from Walls Whare gives you about 5 km of scenic grade I and II tubing or kayaking. Watch out for the occasional steel stake poking out of the water and portage the big log jam just below the car park.
Another good trip for intermediate tubers is the Waiohine River, from Totara Flats down to Walls Whare. This involves a tramp in, followed by 2-3 hours floating down through a series of grade II rapids.
Makara to Red Rocks
This walk, along a section of Wellington’s wild and rugged southwest coastline, can be done in one very long day or two easy ones. It involves everything from beach walking to cliff climbing (optional!). There’s a seal colony at Red Rocks. It’s only possible to walk the coastal section at the Makara end during low tide, but there is an inland alternative. Tide times are different on the southern and eastern sides of the coast.
Baring Head
Wellington’s most popular local rock climbing area is located on the Wainuiomata coast, east of the harbour entrance. Half a dozen solid greywacke outcrops sit on the beach like sunbathing armadillos. Baring Head provides good bouldering for both beginners and rock climbing gymnasts, and is the scene of annual climbing competitions.
It takes nearly an hour to drive through Petone, over the hill and down the Wainuiomata Valley. As soon as you reach the coast, park in the gravel pit next to the Wainuiomata River. From here it’s a 20 minute walk west to the rocks that can be seen in the distance. Which route you take depends on the state of the river. A good rule of thumb is to cross at the car park if you can, otherwise walk along to the mouth. Be careful crossing here - it’s a long cold swim to Antarctica.
A healthy alternative to driving is to catch the Days Bay ferry from Wellington and cycle around the coast to Baring Head. This pleasant ride along a gravel road takes about an hour.
Wharf Jumping
Next time you’re bored on a summer afternoon, try wharf jumping. It’s quite a simple activity really. First pick a good wharf - not too high, not too low and with no safety rails on the end. Days Bay in Wellington has a wharf that’s just right. Calmly cycle down to it and accelerate along its full length - don’t stop. If you’re still bored by the time you hit the water, see a psychiatrist.
Posted under North Island |
An orderly city, Wellington is New Zealand’s political, cultural and shopping capital, set on a hillside in the south of the North Island. Attractions include heritage buildings, fine cultural institutions and museums, extensive public gardens and a vibrant city centre with trendy alfresco dining and excellent shopping. Outside the city is the East Harbour Regional Park, with its sheltered bays, views over Wellington Harbour and access to historic Pencarrow lighthouse. If you stay at the Mercure Hotel Wellington at the upper end of Willis Street, close to the city centre, you’ll be close to the Museum of New Zealand Te papa, Wellington Botanic Gardens, Museum of Wellington City and Sea, and Wellington Waterfront. Attractions outside the city include the East City Regional Park, and Karori Wildlife Park.
Posted under North Island |
New Zealand’s largest city, set around a lovely sheltered harbour, is a lively, multicultural city with beautiful beaches, heritage buildings, excellent museums, fine public gardens and a bustling city centre. The city’s mild weather encourages an outdoor lifestyle and this includes alfresco dining, particularly on the water’s edge. A stay at inner city hotels such as Latitude 37, a cosmopolitan waterfront apartment complex located in the Viaduct Harbour, or Sky City in the heart of Auckland, is just perfect for access to the attractions and shops. In fact, the city centre has lots of excellent shopping opportunities, from fashion outlets featuring local designers, to major world brand-name outlets. Queen Street and the little side streets running off it have many specialty shops selling quality New Zealand arts and crafts. Must-visits include Sky Tower, Auckland Art Gallery, Auckland Museum and the pretty Auckland Botanic Gardens. Other Auckland attractions outside the city include the Waitakere Ranges, Waiheke Island and Devonport.