Archives for South Island category
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Otago stretches from the rolling countryside of the east coast around Dunedin, west across the dry interior of Central Otago, to the alpine regions around Wanaka and Queenstown (which is situated by Lake Wakatipu). The vegetation on the barren schist hillsides consists of sparse grass, some scrub, and some exotic weeds such as the very common pink-flowered wild briar roses. Summer temperatures are very high, while winters usually see heavy falls of snow in the mountains and heavy frosts below.
It was one of the first areas to be settled in New Zealand, as a result of the gold rush. Today the old gold fields have turned into farmland, and the Central Otago region is renowned for the apricots, peaches, cherries and other fruits which flourish in the crisp winters and long hot summers. A bag of fresh cherries purchased at a roadside stand makes a refreshing diversion on a hot day when travelling to the southern Otago lakes.
Central Otago’s alpine regions attract large numbers of skiers during the winter, especially around Queenstown; and the lakes are equally popular with campers, boaters and holidaymakers in the summer. In summer the hillsides are covered with swathes of flowers, but of European weeds, like the pink Briar rose and blue Echiums.
The east coast city of Dunedin is well worth a visit; it’s a port and University of Otago town, with lots of student-centred night life. Architecturally the centre is red-brick English Victorian/Edwardian, with pretty suburbs along the hills of the volcanic peninsula. A ‘greener’ city than Christchurch, due to the higher rainfall and the native Bush of the surrounding countryside. During the days of the gold rush last century, Dunedin was the largest city in the country.
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Travelling west and south from the Queenstown region, you drive through gently rolling and flat farmland, and occasional areas of red tussock. Eventually, you reach Lake Te Anau and, further south, Lake Manapouri. The grassy landscape and climate along the eastern sides of each lake is quite different to the bush-covered west sides, which are part of the Fiordland National Park. The eastern side is fairly dry, while Fiordland has extremely high rainfall. Both lakes have a small town on their eastern shore, although Manapouri is tiny it offers numerous Manapouri accommodation options; Te Anau however offers a greater range of activities (such as water sports, tramping), comfortable accommodation with picturesque views at the Fiordland Hotel and places to eat.
The Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre is at Te Anau; and the town is the focus for visitors taking trips into Fiordland or tramping along the various tracks. The Kepler Track starts at Te Anau, as well as a number of shorter walks; however visitors should come prepared for the climate (in one 28 hour period in 1995, 700mm of rain fell in this region).
On the outskirts of Te Anau is a Native Bird Sanctuary, where visitors can see examples of the shy native bird’s close-up, including the very rare Takahe (blue chicken sized bird, large red feet, red beak. Very slow, in a number of senses - hence nearly extinct)
Manapouri and Te Anau are both extremely deep lakes; and as stated, within Fiordland National Park. The lakes were formed by glaciation in successive Ice Ages, resulting in steep mountains and valleys often plunging uninterrupted to the lake bottom, which is usually well below sea level.
Fiordland is an absolute must for visitors to New Zealand. The scenery will never fail to leave you stunned, no matter how many times you go back.
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If you take one of the boat cruises to Doubtful Sound, the itinerary takes you westwards along Lake Manapouri’s West Arm, at which point you disembark the boat, and take a coach over the Wilmot pass. This road was the most expensive to construct in NZ, and only one tour operator is allowed to take its buses along it. As there is no overland route to this unsealed road anyway, traffic jams are rarely a problem.
The road was made so that materials for the construction of the hydro-electric power station (built into the heart of the mountain) could be brought in from the sea. A visit to the very impressive West Arm power station is part of the day trip, even those for whom technology is a giant yawn cannot help but be awed by the scale of the engineering feat.
The drive through stunning alpine scenery for half an hour takes you up and over Wilmot Pass, in the heart of Fiordland; at the end of the unsealed road is Doubtful Sound. Another cruise boat takes you in comfort through to the Tasman Sea.
The cruises take the whole day, and actually start at the tiny settlement of Manapouri (about half an hour’s drive south of Te Anau). The cruise boats are well fitted, and very comfortable. You must take your own lunch, but a packed lunch can be purchased at Manapouri before departure if desired. The staff often serves afternoon scones on the return journey. Seals and the occasional penguin can be seen on the shore and if you’re lucky, you might even see a whale in one of the fiord inlets. Apparently it’s a popular place for whale Mums to bring their calves.
The typical view of the Fiordland coastline displays the common feature of a whole hillside of trees and undergrowth having been ‘peeled’ off due to a phenomenon called a treequake. The forest has very shallow roots as there is minimal soil available; in fact many NZ native trees specialise in thriving with extremely shallow root structures, on solid rock! If one large canopy tree falls (perhaps during an earthquake), it pulls a whole sheet of vegetation down with it, as the tree roots are so tightly interwoven.
It usually takes about seventy years for a scarred area to regrow completely. Of course the abundant rainfall in Fiordland (up to seven metres a year) encourages the process somewhat.
Posted under South Island |
Milford Sound is one of the places that tourists feel they have to visit, or their journey to the South Island is not complete. It’s the only Sound in Fiordland that one can easily access by car, rather than tramping or taking a special tour. The road north from Te Anau passes through the Eglinton Valley, an alpine valley which features the Mirror Lakes and then ends at Milford Sound. There are official camping sites all along this route, but nothing else. There is one hotel and one very basic youth hostel at the Sound itself, a garage, cafe, and a boat terminal. Booking at both is necessary during the summer.
There is a great deal to see in the area, in terms of landscapes and native plants, but, because of the relatively high altitude, and southerly latitude, as well as the likelihood of rain: if (unlike most tourists) you want to stay and explore the area for a few days and view the glaciated valleys and alpine rivers eg. the Cleddau River staying in the hotel or a spacious camper van is worth the expense.
The Hollyford Valley is magnificent (especially in good weather). It’s more remote than Milford Sound, and can be reached by travelling south back from Milford Sound; but instead of carrying on to Te Anau, turning off after a few miles, onto a gravel road. Very few travelers make it up here. To stay in the Hollyford Valley in comfort you need a car or camper. There are no shops or motels, and only one campsite (with no electricity). The small cabins are all provided with a coal range; and, for anyone who wants to live like an early settler for a day or two, this is the place.
There are many famous walking tracks in the region. The Bush is a mixture of lowland species and beech in the valleys, and beech species on the alpine slopes. Past the tree line are some of New Zealand’s most unspoiled areas of alpine vegetation; even the roadside at higher altitudes going north towards Milford Sound (notably at the Homer Tunnel) has sites that are superb collections of alpine native flora.
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Queenstown is probably the most well known holiday resort in New Zealand, especially for its winter skiing. However, apart from mentioning that it’s the centre of an exhaustive (and exhausting) list of sports activities in the summer, and that the (small) town is crammed full of hotels, bars, restaurants, people etc. etc.; I’ll move on to a surprisingly unknown alternative, only one hour’s drive from Queenstown, at the headwaters of Lake Wakatipu.
If you travel north-west out of Queenstown, 65km along the coast of the lake, you end up at the small settlement of Glenorchy. The last 50km of the winding gravel road make you feel really grateful when you’ve finally reached it! As a peaceful and scenic alternative to Queenstown, Glenorchy is highly recommended. It offers activities like pony-trekking, walking, canoeing, white water rafting on the Dart River, and the start of the Mount Aspiring National Park end of the Routeburn track for keen trampers.
Glenorchy itself consists of a couple of backpacking hostels, a cafe and bakery, three or four small hotels, and a few houses. Pre-booking at any of the accommodation is advised in high season (in both summer and winter), especially as the Queenstown hoteliers come here for quiet weekends! A hotel that seems both very comfortable and intimate is the Glen Roydon Lodge and Restaurant.
The scenery surrounding Glenorchy can best be described as similar to a valley in the Swiss Alps in summer, with the flat lakeside meadows surrounded on all sides by the snow-covered mountains of the national park, and the mouth of the Dart river flowing into the lake here as well. The minimal traffic, many outdoor activities which are not frenetic, and rural landscape are ideal for a peaceful and relaxing time. There’s even a daily bus to Queenstown if you want a change of pace.
Posted under South Island |
Arthurs Pass, named after the man who first documented this most direct route from the Canterbury Plains through to the West Coast, is known both for the stupendous scenery, and the unstable nature of the road itself.
The road snakes across the mountainside leading through Otira Gorge; but unfortunately the entire mountainside is one giant slip. This means that any heavy rain, or mild earthquake, destabilises the slope, and major rockfalls result in the regular closure of the road. The Trans-Alpine Railway route (which parallels the road) however, is much more sensible; it goes through a 8km long tunnel carved through the mountain, and also avoids the interesting run of hairpin bends snaking across the slipface. All in all a genuinely relaxing way to experience the true majesty of geological erosion, coupled with an opportunity to appreciate how lucky you are to have made it through at all. Nervous drivers should choose Lewis Pass further north.
For people who are interested in an easily accessible site of New Zealand’s alpine plant community, there are many walks in the area, and Arthurs Pass has a very small settlement with a DoC centre, restaurant and a couple of motels, for those who would like to explore Arthurs Pass National Park in more detail.
Arthurs Pass is a good place to see the Kea; the Park contains a healthy population of the NZ alpine parrots.
Posted under South Island |
Christchurch is a vibrant and lively city with activities to suit a variety of interests and budgets. From cultural festivals such as the recent Festival of Dance and the Bookfest to “The festival of Romance”, the city lays on an abundance of events that capture the imagination of both locals and travelers. During such events the city takes on a carnival atmosphere , especially when the Local Heroes, The Canterbury Crusaders, meet their current adversaries on the Rugby field.
Christchurch has an ongoing nightlife of cafés and bars, predominantly located on what we locals affectionately or scathingly refer to as “The Strip” aka Oxford Terrace, with various pockets scattered elsewhere around the city.
Other attractions around the city centre are the art centre which is a bustle of craft stalls, live music and international food and my all time favourite, and the place that probably conjures up the most nostalgia for Cantabrians, Hagley Park which is exceptionally beautiful at the moment with its carpets of bluebells, and daffodils dusted with the snow flake like petals from the ornamental cherry blossom that frame the roads that border the park.
While seasonally there is variety in the natural beauty to behold in Christchurch there is also a constantly changing repertoire of things to do:
The Robert McDougall Art Gallery & Annex.
Christchurch’s main public art museum exhibits contemporary and historical New Zealand and international art. The main gallery is located in the Botanic Gardens near the Canterbury Museum off Rolleston Avenue. The Annex, in the nearby Arts Centre, displays contemporary art.
Summer 10am to 5:30pm.
Winter 10am to 4:30pm.
Tel (+64 3) 365-0915.
The Arts Centre of Christchurch
Originally the home to Canterbury Cathedral, the Arts centre is now a cultural hub containing galleries, a cinema, cafés, bars and restaurants. It is also the site of a popular weekend craft and art fair, and of live music performances every Friday lunchtime and weekend during the summer. One notable attraction of the old University is the den where Ernest Lord Rutherford did his early work in physics. The centre is open every day. Tours are available at 1am and 2pm on weekdays.
The center is at 2 Worcester Boulevard.
Tel. (+64 3) 366-0989.
Bone Carving
If you’ve got a few hours to spare, you might like to try bone carving. The Bone Dude’s Bone Carving Studio will show you how to make a great pendant, for a few dollars and about three hours. I did this recently and greatly enjoyed it. Call +64 3 379 7530 to make an appointment. The studio is at 229B Fitzgerald Ave, Christchurch.
Other things to do in Christchurch
Where To Stay
Affordable Christchurch accommodation is available if your are looking to stay in Christchurch.
Posted under South Island |
Queenstown is set on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, with The Remarkables mountain range as a dramatic backdrop. The town’s streets, lined with up-market shops, cool bars and any number of restaurants and nightspots, attract visitors from all parts of the world looking for outdoor adventure and natural beauty. Besides adventure and extreme sports such as white-water rafting, jetboating, hang gliding, snowboarding, and bungy jumping, there are more sedate Queenstown attractions such as steamboat lake cruises, mountain sightseeing, gold panning and trout fishing. Trelawn Cottages, just a 5-minute drive from central Queenstown, offer quality boutique accommodation. Must-visits include, Queenstown Waterfront, Queenstown Gardens, Skyline Gondola, and the Kiwi and Birdlife Park. Other Queenstown attractions, further from the town, include Milford Sound. Although Queenstown is a popular winter destination, its scenic beauty can better be appreciated in warmer months when fishing, golfing, wine tasting and boating are better enjoyed.
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Christchurch, midway down the East Coast of the South Island, is the South Island’s largest city. Tree-lined streets, traditional parks and heritage architecture give the city an English feel. From the spire of the Gothic Revival Christchurch Cathedral, you get a great view of the city. Be sure to visit the International Antarctic Centre, the Willowbank Wildlife Reserve and the Canterbury Museum. The Grand Chancellor Hotel is conveniently located in the centre of the CBD.